Coronavirus Diary: life in Athens in times of (another) crisis, Day 56


As of 6pm, local time, Athens:




March 16: Day 8 of staying in

# of confirmed cases: 331
# of deaths: 4
# of people tested: 3,400

Testing for people who do not have symptoms is not recommended.


May 3: Day 56 of staying in

# of confirmed cases: 2,626 (6 new cases since yesterday)
# of deaths:144 (+1 since yesterday)
# of people tested: 79,332
# of people in ICU: 37



This is where we stood on March 16, when I started writing about the latest crisis to hit Greece (and this time, the whole world), and this is where we stand today, the last day of lockdown. As I review the posts of the past eight weeks, I see how much has shifted in such a short period.  

On Day 9, while the prime minister and the Holy Synod were arguing about church closures, my tween neighbor was facing the new reality of being away from her friends. I rejoiced on Day 12 as I discovered the only souvlaki shop which remained open in my neighborhood. A few days later, I toasted myself with a cocktail for surviving 15 days of staying in. On Day 16, I discovered the gloriousness of sitting on my taratsa in my favorite chair. On March 25, indoors, without fanfare and parades, we celebrated Independence Day. On Day 20, after one of those early stressed-filled visits to the market, I savored a glass of ginger ale, as a wanderer lost in the desert might savor a drop of water. In April, on the biggest religious holiday of the year, we stood on balconies holding candles, witnessing the peculiar yet moving Easter celebration around us – united by our separateness, our bewilderment, our need to feel hopeful.  This year, the May 1st holiday (Labor Day) was marked by a curious, peaceful rally in Syndagma Square, with demonstrators social distantly-arranged with military-like precision. 

my private taratsa beach
tween angst
Actual time seems as if it’s passing by like a wave of molasses. Inch by slow inch it creeps towards us, it encompasses us, we push through it, weighed down by its thickness, exhausted by the struggle of our slow-motion movements, we surrender as it engulfs us completely. 

Independence Day










But then again, strangely, in coronavirus time, a part of our mindset has sped up, and seems to be furiously racing. 

Although the unbelievable-ness of it all has subsided, and a new normal has set in, as this week Greece takes its first steps towards re-opening, my mind is flooded and bombarded by thoughts, doubts, giddiness, cynicism, fatigue, caution, deliberations, expectations… Our wheels are spinning but we’re merely inching forward.
balcony celebration, Easter

Last week, the prime minister addressed the nation and announced a seven-phase plan of re-emergence which will begin on May 4. Each day they will reassess, and if everything goes smoothly, more shops, services, etc will gradually re-open. Should a spike in cases occur, the government will hit pause, restrictions will be back, and we’ll have to stay home and wait again.  

May Day rally
 After the prime minister spoke, it was the turn of several ministers and deputy ministers to discuss the plans and phases in detail, complete with slides, charts, graphs and in general, a meticulous information overload. Kudos however, for they seem to have thought of everything – mandatory wearing of masks; social distancing in lines, on the bus, on the metro, in shops; how many people are allowed in certain spaces; staggered working hours to avoid congestion and rush hour on public transportation; how the returning high school seniors will sit apart in classrooms, etc, etc. 

But in practice it will be very interesting to see how we handle this first of many phases to come, and how the way we are supposed to live now will be monitored and enforced. 

In a recent press briefing, Deputy Minister of Civil Protection Nikos Hardalias stated that “the spread of the virus has decreased but again, I want to stress that the virus is still here and there is no vaccine or proven method of treatment. This is why personal responsibility is our greatest weapon.” 

He continued, “We expect that all of the unions and political authorities, will, by their conduct, reflect the realization that this year is different, and will contribute to the protection of human lives.”

In the same briefing, Health Ministry spokesman Dr Sotiris Tsiodras reiterated that, “A public health crisis affects all of us. Unfortunately, in certain examples in other countries, there were incorrect estimations and wrong decisions were made. I must stress that there is no system which can cope with a mass increase of cases.”

So here we are. Tomorrow on May 4, we’re about to begin the next chapter, the next battle of this never-ending saga. Caught in a tide of molasses, trying to push forward, we’ve realized that we’ll be stuck here for a very long time, but our minds keep spinning and accelerating anyway. 

(I leave you with some stolen and altered words from Shakespeare’s Henry V, Act III, Scene I ) -


Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more;
Or close up the wall with our Greek dead!
In peace there’s nothing so becomes a man,
As modest stillness and humility;
But when the blast of coronavirus war blows in our faces,
Then imitate the action of the responsible citizen:
Wear a big face mask, put on plastic gloves,
Keeping your distance, follow your spirit; and upon this charge,
Cry 'God for Tsiodras! Greece! and summer at the beach!'


sanitizing the Greek Parliament ...    
ready, set, we're free... (for how long, though?)


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