Coronavirus Diary: life in Athens in times of (another) crisis, Day 12


As of 6pm, local time, Athens:

# of confirmed cases: 495 (31 new cases since yesterday)
# of deaths: 9 (3 deaths in the past 24 hours)
# of people in hospital: 90
# of people tested: 7,200

***

Day 12 of staying home

Our numbers are rising. Most of the cases are in Athens. Of the total 495 confirmed cases, 84 are “orphan” cases, of unknown source or contact. 

In today’s 6pm live press briefing Health Ministry spokesman Sotiris Tsiodras and Deputy Civil Protection Minister Nikos Hardalias made more announcements. Some are summarized below.

exodus
Tsiodras and Hardalias both began by strongly urging and stressing that people need to stay home, and that we are not on vacation. They reiterated that this is not the time to go on day trips and go to your summer homes or to your villages in the countryside and on the islands. 

Today it was announced that three more hospitals in Athens are now designated hospitals for coronavirus patients only, and six additional health centers will be used to examine suspicious cases.

Tsiodras is a soft-spoken, thin man with glasses and greying hair. Every day on the live briefing, he’s dressed in a suit and tie, the suit bunching up around his shoulders as he leans forward with his hands clasped on the desk in front of him. He has the air of a nerdy scientist, a professor. He speaks in a calm voice, slowly, explaining the situation, explaining medical terms and consequences of the virus.

He always speaks first and gives the statistics of the day. How many new cases, how many deaths, how many in ICU, how many discharged from the hospital. 

Hardalias, Deputy Civil Protection Minister, has dark hair and a stocky build. Every day at the briefing, he wears a button-down dress shirt. He reads off his notes, looking out over his reading glasses, in a strong, baritone voice, words booming out of his mouth. 

He had a lot to say today.

It’s Friday, beautiful weather, and lots of Athenians are on the move. People are getting out of town, “escaping” to their villages, islands, the countryside, the mountains… The ferries at the port are busy, the highway toll plazas that lead out of Athens are busy… I’m not in a panic but it seems like a lot of other people are.

New measures are now in place to try to rein people in…

Hardalias reminded everyone that the government can see which cars are passing through the toll plazas…

As of 6am tomorrow, Saturday, only permanent residents of the islands may travel to/from the islands, and only for serious reasons (for supplies, etc). To buy a ticket for a ferry to the islands, people must now provide proof of residence on the island, by using tax documents which state legal place of residence. 

In addition, all privately-owned boats and yachts are banned from sailing and are prohibited from entering any port, passengers may not be dropped off/picked up from any port. 

Open-air fruit and vegetable markets will shut down only for tomorrow, Saturday. (too many people congregating there). On Monday they will re-open, but only with 50% of the stalls, and there must be five meters of space between each stall. Sellers will be on a rotation program.

As of Monday, fewer people will be allowed into supermarkets (previously it was one customer per 10 sq meters, now it will be one customer to every 15 sq meters).

Hardalias also repeated previously-announced measures and underlined the punishment for not adhering to the rules, and added that fines may be increased as well. 

Over the weekend, there will be an increased, raised police presence in parks and squares, he reiterated that no picnics are allowed, no group exercise. 

He warned that if people keep going out, trying to get out of Athens, etc, the government will be forced to take even stricter measures, (which are already being discussed and explored).

He said that people who do not follow the rules are irresponsible, negligent and such behavior borders on criminality. 

Today Hardalias was even more serious than usual, his hands gesturing up and down, his words coming out hard and fast, loud – like furiously clacking Morse code signals. 

I get the feeling that the authorities are sending out an SOS…


***
Meanwhile, in my little world, my spirits are up, probably because I’m not watching too much news on TV. Just a brief update in the morning and then I must tune out to keep myself sane. I watch the 6pm live briefing and not much more.

I spent my morning working. Around 3pm I started to get hungry… Spouse is working from home today and I suggested that maybe I should go pick up lunch…

Dare I leave the house? Should I cross the threshold to the outside world, passing through the gates of coronavirus Hades?

At first, we thought strategically. 

I called our favorite place and got no answer… I looked through our pile of take-out menus and couldn’t find the place we wanted. So I decided to venture out on a treasure hunt… 

...for souvlaki. 

I know, souvlaki is not exactly a necessity, but I haven’t been out since Monday (and that was a quick walk to the supermarket around the corner)… And it’s Friday, the start of the weekend, don’t we deserve a bit of excitement? A souvlaki party for two?

I started to put on my shoes…  

Take the hand sanitizer
I know.  
Don’t use the elevator. 
I know.  
Don’t touch the door downstairs, push it with the key. 
I know. 
Push the light switch with your elbow. 
I know. 
Take the wipes, too. 
Ugh.

And I was off to the square near my house in search of souvlaki. The first place was closed. Metal shutters down. No notice posted. 
 
empty square
It was a beautiful sunny day, blue skies, about 68F. Few people were milling about. 

I walked past a pharmacy. Instructions and rules were printed out and taped to the window. There was also a certificate of “disinfection” in the window, from a company that cleans and sanitizes. It stated the date of the last “disinfection”, certified that the premises are officially clean and listed how often “disinfection” cleanings will take place. The staff inside not only wore gloves and masks over their mouths, but they also wore those huge plastic face shields.

So my search continued. Onto the next souvlaki place. Closed. They had a hand-written note (nice touch) in their window saying how important it is for everyone’s health and safety that we all stay home. They wished their valued customers good health and said we’ll all be together again soon. 

I walked all around the square, the two other souvlaki places were also closed, and I crossed the main road to try the last place, a bit further, past the square. 

From afar, I could see that it was open. I almost gleefully pranced over the two sets of tram tracks and the (usually busy) road to reach the souvlaki place. 

souvlaki paradise
I approached Εδεμ, (Edem) the only open souvlaki joint in my area… Edem means Eden. I felt like I had literally reached the Garden of Eden. Day 12 of being cooped up inside, I entered this souvlaki paradise with a ridiculous goofy smile and a bounce in my step. I looked at the people inside and blurted out “Finally, I’ve found you!” They looked sideways at each other and kind of smiled… Maybe they think I’m insane… “You’re the only place open – the others in the square are closed, I’ve been walking all around…” I explained. 

“Really? Such-and-such is closed?”
“Yep.”
“And the big place on the square?”
“Yep. It’s just you guys.”

 
my hero
I placed my order. They stood behind the counters but I still kept my distance, stretching out my arm to put the card in the machine. After I paid, I was about to take out the travel-sized hand sanitizer in my pocket (my last one) when I spotted their big bottle of hand sanitizer on the low counter near the register. Their delivery guy was standing next to it, but he moved away when he saw me coming towards it with my hands out. 

I pumped some onto my hands, hmm very liquid-y, it wasn’t like a gel. Hmm doesn’t smell like gel sanitizer… Before I could say anything, the delivery guy informed me that since they ran out of hand sanitizer, they topped up the bottle with tsipouro

Greek ingenuity
Tsipouro is a distilled spirit containing 40–45% alcohol by volume and is produced from residue left over during the wine-making process. 

“wow, tsipouro?!! Not a bad idea...” We laughed… “Eh, what can we do?” the guy said…

Now my hands smelled like tsipouro and I wanted to lick them. Treasure hunt successful, I left with loot in tsipouro-disinfected hand, walking back through the almost-empty square.

 
When I got to my building, I trudged up the stairs (elevators now resemble an enclosed petri dish of invisible assailants) to my apartment. I stood in the hall.

take the stairs...
 
You found stuff??!! 
OH yeah…
Take off your shoes. 
I know. 
Don't touch anything. 
I know. 
Wash your hands.
I know…

Why do you smell like tsipouro?



Friday souvlaki party

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